GTsimms
Well-known member
This was an interesting test using the BMW M1 Procar and the BMW 320 Turbo Group 5 at Nordschleife in Project CARS 3.
Desktop Test 1
Comparison Project CARS 3 GT DD Pro (QR1, 900 deg., comp mode) = smoother steering input providing a better driving experience, more of a numb vibration feeling. (McLaren GT3 and GT DD Pro wheels)
SEN 900 (calibration in-game 100, 900)
FF 53
FFS Peak
NDP 24
NFR 0
NIN 0
INT 4
FEI 0 (30 to almost equal CSW 2.5 QR2, gets rid of the over torque spikes)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
Note: Adjustment of FEI to 30 puts the feeling of these wheels other than minor steering input to nearly identical. I believe this is due to the initial calibration of 96 CSW 2.5 vs 100 GT DD Pro. This might be adjustable with games that have an adjustable steering sensitivity like Project CARS 2 by setting it at ex: 49.
CSW 2.5 (Simube QR2, 900 deg.) = better vibration details, more sensitive steering input. (R300 w/CSL Hub wheel)
SEN 900 (calibration in-game left 96, 900)
FF 53
DRI 0
FEI 0 (gets rid of the over torque spikes)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
Desktop Test 2
Project CARS 2 (in-game 56/54/48/41, Steering Sensitivity 49 is closer to what a DD feels like, calibration left 95/900)
CSW 2.5 (QR1)
Daytona Trio-val w/911 GT3 R was like the same over torqued effects at FEI 30. But, the QR1 was like on FEI 10 road/tire effects compared with the GT DD Pro (QR1).
CSW 2.5 (QR1 to QR2)
Nordschleife w/BMW 320 Turbo Group 5 the QR1 was more bouncy/spongy feel and finer road/tire details were missing after a QR2 test. The QR2 is not a significant improvement on ffb, but but does make the wheel more solid and with the added details could make an improvement on sim driving.
Overall thoughts at this point prior to moving the GT DD Pro soon to the QR2. IMO, it may not be worth the upgrading from a usable CSW 2.5 with a Simube QR2 to a DD wheel.
Desktop Test 3
QR1 to QR2 GT DD Pro Wheel and Base
Test results were pretty mush the same as the CSW 2.5. Better tires, suspension, and road surfaces feedback. Yes it's better details, but overall not a significant increase from the QR1. These details do help and can help improve driving.
Important recommendations: I would recommend setting up like a routine check on all your wheels and base side screws about every three to six months. Not that, I've really had any major issues, but it's a good preventative maintenance to prevent any possible issues.
Wheel issues or recommendations:
I have been posting in the, Look I've Just Bought..", thread orders from the past two months.
Simube (est. 10 days delivery Louisiana, US.)
1. Simube QR2 base side CSW 2.5
2. Simube QR2 wheel side (6x)
3. Simube QR1 to QR2 Adapter for older wheels
4. Simube ClubSport Magnet Paddle Module (US customs 2+ weeks)
5. Simube QR2 wall mounts (6x)
6. Simube Hub
7. Fanatec QR2 base side (C) for the GT DD Pro.
The Fanatec Club Sport Universal Hub V1 worked after installing the Simube QR2, but eventually quit working afterwards by disconnecting. I think, this is going back to the issue of placing the led back into the vertical position after installing the Simube QR2 adapter and release. I heard a slight snap which caused a pin to be push upwards into the LED. I took it apart to fix it and then placed it into the horizontal position which this caused a pin to be pushed out in the back of the connector.
. I was having problems with the LED not working at times or not showing everything in the Fanatec Control in panel function test (ex. 888 not 8.8.8.). When I tried to fix the issue with the pin, it broke. Be extremely careful with this led installation and I don't recommend taking it out unless it's absolutely necessary. This is where I just gave up to avoid any potential damage to my CSW 2.5 wheel base.
While having the issue with the above wheel. My CSL Hub V1 right shifter stopped working correctly (fixed in post #10 on May 10, 2025). This is really due to the area around the plunger (actuator or whatever) having tolerance issues and the flex in hub. I wouldn't extend the V1 hub more than halfway with the slider system which would limit rim size to a 30 cm. My right shifter will shift at the top again, but I do need to be careful of double shifting atm. I do have an order with AT3D Sim Shop for some magnetic shifters, hopefully it gets shipped sometime soon and this fixes the double shifting issue. I would recommend on this hub, definitely check those slider screws regularly.
Simube Hub works, but I would use it on current bases only and not on discontinued Fanatec bases. I had an issue with it wanting to recognize the hub on the CSW 2.5 base. When it did neither the buttons or shifters worked. If you have an older base, my recommendation is staying with Fanatec. My GT DD Pro recognized it without issue and everything worked. I've had zero quality issues with purchases from Simube.
Desktop Test 1
Comparison Project CARS 3 GT DD Pro (QR1, 900 deg., comp mode) = smoother steering input providing a better driving experience, more of a numb vibration feeling. (McLaren GT3 and GT DD Pro wheels)
SEN 900 (calibration in-game 100, 900)
FF 53
FFS Peak
NDP 24
NFR 0
NIN 0
INT 4
FEI 0 (30 to almost equal CSW 2.5 QR2, gets rid of the over torque spikes)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
Note: Adjustment of FEI to 30 puts the feeling of these wheels other than minor steering input to nearly identical. I believe this is due to the initial calibration of 96 CSW 2.5 vs 100 GT DD Pro. This might be adjustable with games that have an adjustable steering sensitivity like Project CARS 2 by setting it at ex: 49.
CSW 2.5 (Simube QR2, 900 deg.) = better vibration details, more sensitive steering input. (R300 w/CSL Hub wheel)
SEN 900 (calibration in-game left 96, 900)
FF 53
DRI 0
FEI 0 (gets rid of the over torque spikes)
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
Desktop Test 2
Project CARS 2 (in-game 56/54/48/41, Steering Sensitivity 49 is closer to what a DD feels like, calibration left 95/900)
CSW 2.5 (QR1)
Daytona Trio-val w/911 GT3 R was like the same over torqued effects at FEI 30. But, the QR1 was like on FEI 10 road/tire effects compared with the GT DD Pro (QR1).
CSW 2.5 (QR1 to QR2)
Nordschleife w/BMW 320 Turbo Group 5 the QR1 was more bouncy/spongy feel and finer road/tire details were missing after a QR2 test. The QR2 is not a significant improvement on ffb, but but does make the wheel more solid and with the added details could make an improvement on sim driving.
Overall thoughts at this point prior to moving the GT DD Pro soon to the QR2. IMO, it may not be worth the upgrading from a usable CSW 2.5 with a Simube QR2 to a DD wheel.
Desktop Test 3
QR1 to QR2 GT DD Pro Wheel and Base
Test results were pretty mush the same as the CSW 2.5. Better tires, suspension, and road surfaces feedback. Yes it's better details, but overall not a significant increase from the QR1. These details do help and can help improve driving.
Important recommendations: I would recommend setting up like a routine check on all your wheels and base side screws about every three to six months. Not that, I've really had any major issues, but it's a good preventative maintenance to prevent any possible issues.
Wheel issues or recommendations:
I have been posting in the, Look I've Just Bought..", thread orders from the past two months.
Simube (est. 10 days delivery Louisiana, US.)
1. Simube QR2 base side CSW 2.5
2. Simube QR2 wheel side (6x)
3. Simube QR1 to QR2 Adapter for older wheels
4. Simube ClubSport Magnet Paddle Module (US customs 2+ weeks)
5. Simube QR2 wall mounts (6x)
6. Simube Hub
7. Fanatec QR2 base side (C) for the GT DD Pro.
The Fanatec Club Sport Universal Hub V1 worked after installing the Simube QR2, but eventually quit working afterwards by disconnecting. I think, this is going back to the issue of placing the led back into the vertical position after installing the Simube QR2 adapter and release. I heard a slight snap which caused a pin to be push upwards into the LED. I took it apart to fix it and then placed it into the horizontal position which this caused a pin to be pushed out in the back of the connector.
. I was having problems with the LED not working at times or not showing everything in the Fanatec Control in panel function test (ex. 888 not 8.8.8.). When I tried to fix the issue with the pin, it broke. Be extremely careful with this led installation and I don't recommend taking it out unless it's absolutely necessary. This is where I just gave up to avoid any potential damage to my CSW 2.5 wheel base.While having the issue with the above wheel. My CSL Hub V1 right shifter stopped working correctly (fixed in post #10 on May 10, 2025). This is really due to the area around the plunger (actuator or whatever) having tolerance issues and the flex in hub. I wouldn't extend the V1 hub more than halfway with the slider system which would limit rim size to a 30 cm. My right shifter will shift at the top again, but I do need to be careful of double shifting atm. I do have an order with AT3D Sim Shop for some magnetic shifters, hopefully it gets shipped sometime soon and this fixes the double shifting issue. I would recommend on this hub, definitely check those slider screws regularly.
Simube Hub works, but I would use it on current bases only and not on discontinued Fanatec bases. I had an issue with it wanting to recognize the hub on the CSW 2.5 base. When it did neither the buttons or shifters worked. If you have an older base, my recommendation is staying with Fanatec. My GT DD Pro recognized it without issue and everything worked. I've had zero quality issues with purchases from Simube.
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