eekz
Well-known member
Hello once again!
I've put pretty much time in figuring out how PMRs FFB works and want to share the main concept that I've discovered and this thing makes the PMR's FFB the best implementation for me personally.
The good starting point is the official FFB Guide. So if you want to make the sim's FFB better for you, go for it.
However, the main point is the following (to my understanding)
There are two extremes you can get on what forces your FFB is based:
1. Self-aligning torque
2. Lateral G-load
The best thing about PMR FFB system is that is allows you to try both those extremes and figure out what is better for you and for your speed. I don't recollect any other sim that allows you to have so many options in tuning your FFB and choose on what forces it's based (maybe RF2 via editing json files iirc, but not 100% sure here)
So in my case the example is on the following gear - 3.2 Nm DD wheel + Porsche 992 GT3
The global FFB settings is the following:

But this not so important as the real difference happens in the car's setup.
1. Self-aligning based approach
The main options you'd like to look at are:
Alignment boost
Car's caster offset
Low EQ
In my case it is:

If you have more powerful DD base you might change the EQ, it's just amplifier of alignment torque
Also increasing caster offset to positive increases aligning torque as it should.
The main thing I'd like to mention is Alignment boost as I think it is too little info provided in the official guide.
Increasing alignment boost will not only make your self-alignment force stronger but it modifies the feel of the grip change significantly.
Let's say at 0 option we have the following graph

If you increase the alignment boost to it's extreme it will make the graph look like it:

You get more force in the center but the drop off of the force on grip loss will be also sudden and pronounced. So basically, at extreme it will feel like constantly catching this peak grip balancing like walking on edge of a knife.
That's why I wouldn't recommend boosting it too much. Ideally you need to tune it to the point when you feel where the peak is and there is still some room for error before the force drops off.
2. G-load based approach
For this one I've tried per manual reducing Low EQ and adding Load boost - but it didn't work. The wheel stayed empty. I guess there is an error in manual. What you really want to do here is to put alignment boost to -1.00 (so the change in alignment forces will be maximally flat) like that

And then increase Load boost to 1.0
After that with Low EQ you can adjust the strength of load boost in the FFB signal even more if you need it.
Mine looks like that (it's atm, probably you want to go EQ 1.0 as I'm not sure if Load Boost is amplified by low EQ more than 1.0. Need to test):

This way the main thing you feel while cornering is the change of lateral G-force
If you want to reduce self-aligning torque component even more - go for negative caster offsets on the car. I believe at -3 you'll end up will almost pure G-load torques, but I'm not that crazy to try it
It'll make the feel of FFB more intuitively clear and probably natural. It's a matter of preference what there was even a video on YT about it from Gamermuscle. However, basing mainly on G-forces will make the car harder to catch on slides and fast directional changes.
And you can blend those two extreme approaches with the settings of car's FFB up to your liking. But be cautious here: blending load boost and alignment boost can do wired things in certain harsh car transitions that will feel like your tires are glued to the tarmac for no reason.
In the end, I'd like to say that it's really big freedom here in PMR on how you want your FFB to be and feel. I don't find such freedom in tuning in other sims and if you don't like the approach implemented by devs there - you just either get used to it (and probably get bad habits in some cases) or drop it. PMRs system gives you options and that's what makes it's FFB the best personally for me.
I believe with more capable base in terms of NMs the car’s feedback through the wheel can be tuned to replicate the real vehicle very accurately. The system clearly demonstrates that it’s possible. However, you need to have driven those cars yourself to truly understand how they feel.
Not saying that there is no need in improvement, tire slide feel, ABS and TC feel and probably some other details could be definitely improved, but while doing it, please don't break the concept which is really good!
Thanks for your attention!
Best regards,
eekz
NOTE: this is written basing on my personal understanding. I'm not pretending to be 100% correct, but that's what I figured out and summarized during my personal testing.
I've put pretty much time in figuring out how PMRs FFB works and want to share the main concept that I've discovered and this thing makes the PMR's FFB the best implementation for me personally.
The good starting point is the official FFB Guide. So if you want to make the sim's FFB better for you, go for it.
However, the main point is the following (to my understanding)
There are two extremes you can get on what forces your FFB is based:
1. Self-aligning torque
2. Lateral G-load
The best thing about PMR FFB system is that is allows you to try both those extremes and figure out what is better for you and for your speed. I don't recollect any other sim that allows you to have so many options in tuning your FFB and choose on what forces it's based (maybe RF2 via editing json files iirc, but not 100% sure here)
So in my case the example is on the following gear - 3.2 Nm DD wheel + Porsche 992 GT3
The global FFB settings is the following:

But this not so important as the real difference happens in the car's setup.
1. Self-aligning based approach
The main options you'd like to look at are:
Alignment boost
Car's caster offset
Low EQ
In my case it is:

If you have more powerful DD base you might change the EQ, it's just amplifier of alignment torque
Also increasing caster offset to positive increases aligning torque as it should.
The main thing I'd like to mention is Alignment boost as I think it is too little info provided in the official guide.
Increasing alignment boost will not only make your self-alignment force stronger but it modifies the feel of the grip change significantly.
Let's say at 0 option we have the following graph

If you increase the alignment boost to it's extreme it will make the graph look like it:

You get more force in the center but the drop off of the force on grip loss will be also sudden and pronounced. So basically, at extreme it will feel like constantly catching this peak grip balancing like walking on edge of a knife.
That's why I wouldn't recommend boosting it too much. Ideally you need to tune it to the point when you feel where the peak is and there is still some room for error before the force drops off.
2. G-load based approach
For this one I've tried per manual reducing Low EQ and adding Load boost - but it didn't work. The wheel stayed empty. I guess there is an error in manual. What you really want to do here is to put alignment boost to -1.00 (so the change in alignment forces will be maximally flat) like that

And then increase Load boost to 1.0
After that with Low EQ you can adjust the strength of load boost in the FFB signal even more if you need it.
Mine looks like that (it's atm, probably you want to go EQ 1.0 as I'm not sure if Load Boost is amplified by low EQ more than 1.0. Need to test):

This way the main thing you feel while cornering is the change of lateral G-force
If you want to reduce self-aligning torque component even more - go for negative caster offsets on the car. I believe at -3 you'll end up will almost pure G-load torques, but I'm not that crazy to try it
It'll make the feel of FFB more intuitively clear and probably natural. It's a matter of preference what there was even a video on YT about it from Gamermuscle. However, basing mainly on G-forces will make the car harder to catch on slides and fast directional changes.
And you can blend those two extreme approaches with the settings of car's FFB up to your liking. But be cautious here: blending load boost and alignment boost can do wired things in certain harsh car transitions that will feel like your tires are glued to the tarmac for no reason.
In the end, I'd like to say that it's really big freedom here in PMR on how you want your FFB to be and feel. I don't find such freedom in tuning in other sims and if you don't like the approach implemented by devs there - you just either get used to it (and probably get bad habits in some cases) or drop it. PMRs system gives you options and that's what makes it's FFB the best personally for me.
I believe with more capable base in terms of NMs the car’s feedback through the wheel can be tuned to replicate the real vehicle very accurately. The system clearly demonstrates that it’s possible. However, you need to have driven those cars yourself to truly understand how they feel.
Not saying that there is no need in improvement, tire slide feel, ABS and TC feel and probably some other details could be definitely improved, but while doing it, please don't break the concept which is really good!
Thanks for your attention!
Best regards,
eekz
NOTE: this is written basing on my personal understanding. I'm not pretending to be 100% correct, but that's what I figured out and summarized during my personal testing.
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